If you want contrasts, head to ; western Taiwan and start at the coastline, continue through rich farmland and end in the high mountains of the central range. In fact, for a study in contrasts, just head to the Alishan National Scenic Area. Here you can travel through three biogeographical zones – tropical, subtropical and temperate – in just three hours (a rare old single-track alpine railway is your carriage). But unless you have unlimited time, the west’s contrasts will demand you choose from among them. Should you explore Taiwan’s southern Chinese heritage (which includes a great collection of temples) or its aboriginal culture? Should you join a pilgrimage for the goddess of the sea or learn to meditate at a Buddhist temple? Should you climb one of the highest mountains in East Asia or cycle easy bike lanes through the countryside? Of all the regions in Taiwan, this is one we suggest you follow our advice for most carefully (which includes letting you know those areas you don’t need to follow our advice). While there are some real treasures out there, there’s also a lot of dismal wasteland. In general, the cities can be given a miss except as jumping-off points. For smaller towns, don’t miss
Lukang, Puli and, to a lesser extent, Changhua, even if your time is tight. Forget the miles of coastline unless you like Styrofoam, cables, plastic and – you get the picture. Look to the rice fields, the mountains and Sun Moon Lake, the largest body of water in Taiwan, for your scenic fix.

1. EARLY HISTORY

   ; There is evidence of human settlement in Taiwan dating as far back as 30,000–40,000 years ago; current prevalent thinking dates the arrival of the Austronesian peoples, ancestors of many of the tribal people who still inhabit Taiwan ( between 4000–5000 ; years ago. For most of her long history, China seemed fairly indifferent [...]...

2. Southern Taiwan

   In the ; south, people’s ties to rural folk culture are strongest. Local gods are more fervently worshipped, traditions more respected, and a clannish regard for kith and kin more obvious. And in a land of hospitable people, southerners shine as the most hospitable of all. Outside of Taipei, the only cities really worth [...]...