If you want contrasts, head to ; western Taiwan and start at the coastline, continue through rich farmland and end in the high mountains of the central range. In fact, for a study in contrasts, just head to the Alishan National Scenic Area. Here you can travel through three biogeographical zones – tropical, subtropical and temperate – in just three hours (a rare old single-track alpine railway is your carriage). But unless you have unlimited time, the west’s contrasts will demand you choose from among them. Should you explore Taiwan’s southern Chinese heritage (which includes a great collection of temples) or its aboriginal culture? Should you join a pilgrimage for the goddess of the sea or learn to meditate at a Buddhist temple? Should you climb one of the highest mountains in East Asia or cycle easy bike lanes through the countryside? Of all the regions in Taiwan, this is one we suggest you follow our advice for most carefully (which includes letting you know those areas you don’t need to follow our advice). While there are some real treasures out there, there’s also a lot of dismal wasteland. In general, the cities can be given a miss except as jumping-off points. For smaller towns, don’t miss
Lukang, Puli and, to a lesser extent, Changhua, even if your time is tight. Forget the miles of coastline unless you like Styrofoam, cables, plastic and – you get the picture. Look to the rice fields, the mountains and Sun Moon Lake, the largest body of water in Taiwan, for your scenic fix.

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1. EARLY HISTORY

   ; There is evidence of human settlement in Taiwan dating as far back as 30,000–40,000 years ago; current prevalent thinking dates the arrival of the Austronesian peoples, ancestors of...

2. Southern Taiwan

   In the ; south, people’s ties to rural folk culture are strongest. Local gods are more fervently worshipped, traditions more respected, and a clannish regard for kith and kin...

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There is evidence of human settlement in Taiwan dating as far back as 30,000–40,000 years ago; current prevalent thinking dates the arrival of the Austronesian peoples, ancestors of many of the tribal people who still inhabit Taiwan ( between 4000–5000 ; years ago. For most of her long history, China seemed fairly indifferent to Taiwan. Early Chinese texts from as far back as AD 206 contain references to the island, but for the most part it was seen as a savage island, best left alone. Contact between China and Taiwan was erratic until the early 1400s, when boatloads of immigrants from China’s Fujian province, disillusioned with the political instability in their homeland, began arriving on Taiwan’s shores. When the new immigrants arrived, they encountered two groups of aboriginals: one who made their homes on the fertile plains of central and
southwestern Taiwan and the other, seminomadic, lived along the Central Mountain ; Range. Over the next century, immigration from Fujian increased, these settlers being joined by the Hakka, another ethnic group leaving the mainland in great numbers. By the early 1500s there were three categories of people on the island: Hakka, Fujianese and the aboriginal tribes. Today, Taiwan’s population is mainly descended from these early Chinese immigrants, though centuries of intermarriage makes it likely a fair number of Taiwanese have some aboriginal blood as ; well.

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1. Western Taiwan

   If you want contrasts, head to ; western Taiwan and start at the coastline, continue through rich farmland and end in the high mountains of the central range. In...

In the ; south, people’s ties to rural folk culture are strongest. Local gods are more fervently worshipped, traditions more respected, and a clannish regard for kith and kin more obvious. And in a land of hospitable people, southerners shine as the most hospitable of all. Outside of Taipei, the only cities really worth visiting are in the south: ie Tainan and Kaohsiung. Tainan has a temple heritage second to none, and a great array of local foods to sample. Kaohsiung is a harbour city on a mad drive to make up for decades of lost development time. Ten years ago we could hardly stand to drive past it. But these days you can feel the buzz (much like Taipei a decade ago) and couple of days here soaking it in would be well spent. For some of the best mountain scenery in the country head to the South Cross-Island Hwy. This route literally crosses the island, and can be used as a walking path, with side trips up to 3000m-plus mountains and down to beautiful natural hot springs in the river valleys. In fact, the south pretty much has it wrapped up for the nature-lover. There are two butterfly valleys – one of which (in Maolin) has recently been put on equal footing with the Monarch Butterfly Valley in Mexico – and a winter resting ground for therareblack-faced spoonbill. The southern landscape also varies from coastal mud flats, to grassy headlands, to majestic cypress forests. Weatherwise, the south is hot and sticky in summer and warm and dry in winter.If you want to swim in January, head south.

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1. Western Taiwan

   If you want contrasts, head to ; western Taiwan and start at the coastline, continue through rich farmland and end in the high mountains of the central range. In...